BIO AND CAREER
Luca Ducoli, 25, is a mountaineer and climber originally from Val Camonica, in the province of Brescia. His curiosity for exploration and a passion for the mountains, cultivated since childhood, have led him to constantly seek new ways to climb rock faces and explore new terrain.
In mountaineering he found the most natural language to unite these two drives: from the mountains of his home to the Dolomites, to the great walls of Patagonia and Pakistan.
In 2023, he joined the CAI Eagle Team, selected along with other young Italian climbers. The journey took him to Patagonia in January 2025, where he and Silvia Loreggian climbed the Whillans-Cochrane route on Aguja Poincenot and attempted Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route.
At the same time, Luca has developed numerous personal projects, dedicating himself both to repeating major routes and establishing new lines. These include Bal...toro on Mont Oujdad in Morocco, Eclissi on the Torre di Mezzaluna, Il tempo sospeso (Suspended Time) and Déjà vu on Furcia Rossa III. In 2026, he also climbed Divine Providence on the Pilier d'Angle and the Bonington on the Central Pillar of Freney on Mont Blanc.
That same year, he took part in the K7 expedition in Pakistan, along with Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, and Giacomo Mauri. The team established Rollercoaster on the southeast face of K7 (6,935 m): a new line of approximately 1,540 meters, with difficulties up to M7, WI5+, VI, and A1. For Luca, it represents one of the most important experiences of his mountaineering career so far.
When he's not in the mountains, he works as a freelancer in his family's metalworking business. However, he continues to forge his own path, aiming to dedicate more and more time to mountaineering, exploration, and new projects on the world's great walls.
In mountaineering he found the most natural language to unite these two drives: from the mountains of his home to the Dolomites, to the great walls of Patagonia and Pakistan.
In 2023, he joined the CAI Eagle Team, selected along with other young Italian climbers. The journey took him to Patagonia in January 2025, where he and Silvia Loreggian climbed the Whillans-Cochrane route on Aguja Poincenot and attempted Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route.
At the same time, Luca has developed numerous personal projects, dedicating himself both to repeating major routes and establishing new lines. These include Bal...toro on Mont Oujdad in Morocco, Eclissi on the Torre di Mezzaluna, Il tempo sospeso (Suspended Time) and Déjà vu on Furcia Rossa III. In 2026, he also climbed Divine Providence on the Pilier d'Angle and the Bonington on the Central Pillar of Freney on Mont Blanc.
That same year, he took part in the K7 expedition in Pakistan, along with Matteo Della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, and Giacomo Mauri. The team established Rollercoaster on the southeast face of K7 (6,935 m): a new line of approximately 1,540 meters, with difficulties up to M7, WI5+, VI, and A1. For Luca, it represents one of the most important experiences of his mountaineering career so far.
When he's not in the mountains, he works as a freelancer in his family's metalworking business. However, he continues to forge his own path, aiming to dedicate more and more time to mountaineering, exploration, and new projects on the world's great walls.
HIGHLIGHTS
2022 – Monte Oujdad, High Atlas: opening of Baltoro (7c, 350 m).
2023–2024 – Landmark climbs on Marmolada, Mont Blanc, Presolana, Adamello, Arco, and the Dolomites.
2025 – Patagonia, CAI Eagle Team: Whillans-Cochrane on Aguja Poincenot; attempt on the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre.
2025 – Furcia Rossa III: opening of Il tempo sospeso.
2026 – Mont Blanc: Divine Providence enchainment on the Pilier d'Angle and Bonington on the Central Pillar of Freney.
2026 – K7, Pakistan: first ascent of Rollercoaster (M7, WI5+, VI, A1; approx. 1,540 m) on the southeast face.
2026 – Furcia Rossa III: opening of Déjà vu.
2023–2024 – Landmark climbs on Marmolada, Mont Blanc, Presolana, Adamello, Arco, and the Dolomites.
2025 – Patagonia, CAI Eagle Team: Whillans-Cochrane on Aguja Poincenot; attempt on the Ragni Route on Cerro Torre.
2025 – Furcia Rossa III: opening of Il tempo sospeso.
2026 – Mont Blanc: Divine Providence enchainment on the Pilier d'Angle and Bonington on the Central Pillar of Freney.
2026 – K7, Pakistan: first ascent of Rollercoaster (M7, WI5+, VI, A1; approx. 1,540 m) on the southeast face.
2026 – Furcia Rossa III: opening of Déjà vu.