Jean Troillet

Jean Troillet's mountaineering activity began early. At 21 he managed to get noticed thanks to a speed ascent of the Matterhorn where he took only 4 hours and 10 minutes. In the same year he became an Alpine guide and then became passionate about very high altitudes, approaching the eight-thousanders. He has ten Himalayan giants to his credit, all climbed in Alpine style and without using oxygen tanks. In 1986, together with Erhard Loretan, he reached the summit of Everest via the Tibetan side. The two climbers took 43 hours in total to go from base camp-summit-base camp. In 1997 he returned to Everest, again via the north face, which he descended with a snowboard starting from an altitude of 8,700 meters. Again with Loretan and the Polish Vojchiech Kurtyka, he succeeded in the non-stop ascent of Cho Oyu.

1973 – Speed ​​climbs the north face of the Matterhorn in just 4 hours and 10 minutes. With Jean-Pierre Frossard
1976 – Climbs Fitz Roy with Ruedi Homberger, René Mayor and Mouka
1981 – Opens a new route on the south face of Mount Kenya. With Jean-Pierre Frossard and Kidè Carron
1985 – Climbs K2 with Erhard Lorétan, Pierre Morand and Eric Escoffier
1985 – Climb Dhaulagiri with Erhard Lorétan, Pierre-Alain Steiner and Pierre Morand
1986 – Climbs the North Face of Everest in just 43 hours round trip. With Erhard Lorétan, Pierre Béguin, Sandro Godio
1990 – Climbs Cho Oyu via the West Face in just 27 hours between ascent and descent. With Erhard Lorétan and Voyteck Kurtika
1990 – Climbs Shisha Pangma, opening a new route on the south face. With Erhard Lorétan and Voyteck Kurtika
1991 – Climbs Makalu via the West Pillar. With Erhard Lorétan and two Spanish friends
1994 – Climbs Lhotse with Erhard Lorétan and Ruedi Homberger
1995 – Climbs Kangchenjunga with Erhard Lorétan, André Georges and Pierre Ozenda
1997 – Snowboard descent along the North Face of Everest from an altitude of 8700 metres
2007 – Concatenate Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II. With Mike Horn, Frédéric Roux and Olivier Roduit